Byzantine Chain Project
Byzantine Chain Tutorial
The Byzantine Chain is one of the most versatile chain maille weaves you can learn. Once you learn the basics, the variations are endless..
Difficulty
Level: Intermediate
Time to Complete: 1-2 hours
Final Length: Customizable  
Materials Needed
Jump rings (18ga 4.0mm ID recommended for beginners)
2 pairs of pliers
Clasp of your choice
Ring Size Options:
AR 3.5
22ga 2.5 ID - 34 rings/in
20ga 3.0 ID - 26 rings/in
18ga 3.5 ID - 24 rings/in
18ga 4.0 - 20 rings/in
16ga 54.5.0 - 18 ring/in
14ga 5.5 - 12 rings/in

STEP 1: The Starter A

Close 2 jump rings, (pair A). Attach a small piece of wire to the end pair to create a handle. [For faster chain making, open jump rings and organize them in piles of six rings.] Size Selection: The following sizes can be used for Byzantine. 14ga 5.0mm ID (Extra Large) 16ga 4.5mm ID (Large) 18ga 4.0mm ID (First time making chains) 18ga 3.5mm ID (Standard) 20ga 3.0mm ID (Fine) 22ga 2.5mm ID (Micro Chain) -not for the faint of heart.

byzantine chain step 1

STEP 2: The Starter B

Attach 2 new jump rings to pair A.

byzantine chain step 2

STEP 3: The Starter C

Attach 2 new jump rings to pair B.

byzantine chain step 3

STEP 4: The Grip

Hold the starter by the wire and let the jump rings hang. Use your thumb and finger so that you pinch Pair A & B. This isolation technique will make it easier to build your chain. If you move your hand, only pair C should move back and forth.

byzantine chain step 4

STEP 5: The Flip

Turn your hand so that you are pointing the starter at the ceiling. (C is now on top). Flip pair C open like the petals of a flower.

byzantine chain step 5

STEP 6: The Separatio

Using an Awl or pointed tool, separate the rings of pair B. If you lose your place start over (step 4: the grip) and focus on pinching pair A/B to keep the rings from moving too much.

byzantine chain step 6

STEP 7: The Push

Push the awl into the chain. The link should appear like the photo. You have used all 6 rings and the pattern now repeats.

Are your six rings open and ready?

byzantine chain step 7

STEP 8: The Push - Reviewed

Should look like this.

byzantine chain step 8

STEP 9: The Hold

Grasp the chain firmly. Prepare to remove the awl.

byzantine chain step 9

STEP 10: The Hold - Review

As you remove the Awl, maintain a firm pressure. This will keep the chain from collapsing while you pickup and add your next set of jump rings.

The Red shows the placement of the next ring

byzantine chain step 10

STEP 11: Insert New A

Insert a jump ring (new Pair A) onto the spot that was occupied by the awl. This may feel awkward at first, but you will quickly become proficient. I use a sweeping motion like setting a hook.

byzantine chain step 11

STEP 12: Insert New A - Review

Don’t put down the chain just yet. Reinsert the awl to hold your spot open. Whenever I need to put down my chain I always put the awl back in.

byzantine chain step 12

STEP 13: Close A and Add Another

Close the jump ring with a second plier. Work it back and forth with a slight inward pressure so there is no opening on the ring.

Don’t put down the chain just yet. Reinsert the awl to hold your spot open. Whenever I need to put down my chain I always put the awl back in.

Pick up another jump ring and place it next to the first

byzantine chain step 13

STEP 14: The New A

The pair of jump rings that you inserted in step 13 is now the new pair A (step 1)

byzantine chain step 14

STEP 15: The New B

Add two new jump rings to pair A.

byzantine chain step 15

STEP 16: The New C

Add two new rings to pair B.

REPEAT: Steps 4 - 16 and Repeat until desired length.

byzantine chain step 16

STEP 17: End Chain

When you are ready to end the chain. Perform the last FLIP and insert two new rings.

byzantine chain step 17

STEP 18: Add a Clasp

After the last flip, use a single jump ring to attach the clasp of your choice

byzantine chain step 18